I`m sitting here in Caffi Caban eating tiffin and drinking a delicious cup of tea with a warm feeling in my soul. There is also a warm feeling in my soles. The soles of my feet. The night sky is slowly creeping up in the mountains and the warmth feels good. Why? Because I have completed one of my best mountain days, a walk that induced butt clenching fear, a slight tinge of dizziness from vertigo and gave me some of the best views I have ever had in the UK.
This all happened in the space of 6 and a half hours on the dangerous, precipitous but wonderfully endearing Snowdon Horseshoe. I feel I have overcome one of my walking bogies. A route that I have never dared tread before. Sure, I`ve been to Snowdon on many an occasion. Been to the summit more times than I care to remember. But never by this route before. The Snowdon Horseshoe, to me, is now the route to beat all routes.
Staying at the Pen Y Pass Youth Hostel we were able to make an early start. An early start for three guys who have small children and are on a weekend away is about 9am. Stuffed full of English breakfast, daypacks packed and boots tightened we set off on what we thought was going to be an epic 9 hours hike coming down off the mountains in the dark, head torches lighting our way.
The first leg of this classic route is following the Pyg Track from the Pen Y Pass car park, keeping to the north of the massive until you come to a saddle. Here you make the choice. Turn right and head up the backbone of Crib Goch, taking your life in your own hands. Or you continue on, taking a more moderate route up to the summit of Snowdon. We turned right. I’ve always been slightly in awe of the people I see who turn right at this point. Today I was slightly in awe of myself.
Caution sign - Crib Goch
Clambering up the backbone of Crib Goch, didn’t feel too scary. Somewhat scrambling, mostly walking we edged ever near to the summit. Looking down into the Pass of Llanberis on our right and to our left we could take in the mighty Snowdon and the tranquil lakes of Llyn Llydaw and Glaslyn. Slowly and sure footedly we approached the summit of Crib Goch. Now things started getting a little hairy. This is when the butt clenching moments started to take hold. My fellow walkers Mark and Trevor packed a little more confidence in their bag than I did. Did I mention I suffer a little with vertigo? Not good for a mountain walker at the best of times, but up here? Potentially dangerous.
From the summit of Crib Goch you can clearly see your route, assuming the weather is good. A mesmerising knife edge ridge, the crowing glory of tumultuous steep slopes dropping off on either side. Mark and Trevor skipped along like nimble baby mountain goats. I was clinging on for dear life wondering if this was a ‘slight mistake’ on my behalf. At one point I was straddling the ridge, a foot dangling down the north face and a foot dangling down the south face. I inched a long in this uncomely position for a few meters. Mark and Trevor encouraging me by saying what I was doing looked even more dangerous than actually walking. I didn’t really take any notice.
View back to the Crib Goch ridgelineSoon I started to conquer my fear. Much as a baby starting to walk for the first time. I could feel the adrenaline coursing through my veins making me feel alive, making me think of that quote that you should feel fear once or twice a year as it really makes you feel alive. It appeared that the most dangerous part was now behind me, time to take control, get a good grip and walk the rest. We began the decent to the saddle before climbing back up to Crib y Ddysgl. A fellow walker said that the worse was behind me. You can relax a little. I think I believed him.
The glorious sunshine continued to light my way. The wind was but a small breeze every now and then, helping to keep me cool. Clearly seeing the crampon marks in the rocks I was pleased that the weather was kind to us. Too kind really for a Novembers day. The summit of CribY Ddysgl was soon reached. I knew that from here to the top of the highest mountain in England and Wales was a good wide path, a veritable stroll in the woods compared to what I had just conquered. I was feeling on top of the world. But what lay beyond the great mountain? The rest of the horse shoe was a mystery to me. All I could see was the very steep north eastern cliffs of Y Llwedd and what appeared to be, again, a knife edge ridge. Gulp.
Lunch on the summit. I don’t know why. It’s just the thing you do when you reach a summit. Especially when the weather is being this kind to us. Once our stomachs were abated we plotted and scoped out the next part of our route. It didn’t look as bad as I first thought. The knife edge ridge and the sheer cliff faces of Y Lliwedd where much more gentle on the southern side. The worse was definitely behind us. A mad scree slope helped us to descend Snowdon, care was needed, you didn’t want to loose your footing and strangely there was a huge amount of broken glass on the route. I can’t imagine why.
Y Lliwedd and the route back down. Down to a saddle and the ascent started again. A more sedate route this time. A good low grade scramble, big holds, a little hefting here and there, some parts of well worn path and the first summit was reached. I kept a little to the west side of the mountain on the way up. That sheer cliff was still on the north eastern side. I didn’t want to get too close to it. A small drop down and we climbed up the east peak of Y Lliwedd summits. Clearly we could see the route back down. Down to the lakes. Clearly we didn’t want to go down. Opportunity was taken often to enjoy the ravishing beauty of the surrounding land. The sun was at the perfect position in the sky, lighting the mountains and undulating lands to the east of us in the most perfect manner.
Finally we reached the bog that signaled a left turn. Down, down, down into the valley. A little clambering, a little avoiding wet rocks and we reached the painful tarmac of the miners track. A half hour slog ensued and we arrived back at the Pen y Pass Youth hostel. Our mountain day was complete. And completed in record time for us. Six and a half hours. No need for head torches to light our way home. An epic day was complete. I had finally done the Snowdon Horseshoe. My mountain walking bogie of Crib Goch had been a sundered. I felt warm inside, my soul felt great.
Date Submitted:
21/10/2011
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